Eaters Digest: The Joint That Zagat Passed

Dino’s Joint
827 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville
631-351-0777

On the same road where most recent openings lean towards bar-heavy mega-restaurants (Four, Blackstone, Kodiaks) comes Dino’s Joint in Melville. It is restaurateur Dean Philippis’ little labor of love—a cozy, dark, 10-table antidote to the surrounding shopping centers, with no bar at all. It has a throwback feel, like a ’40s-era spot down a side street in midtown, but with the same high Long Island pedigree as Piccolo, Mill Pond and Table 9. Opened a year before the latest Zagat survey, the editors passed it by at 60 mph.

It’s a place for un-rushed, good Italian dinners for two or four with concerned service and a handy wine list with a surfeit of bottles in the mid-20s and recommended hidden gems. A portrait of Dean Martin blesses the place, not in a Rat Pack-y way or anything, just hanging over the fireplace with its fake flames “burning” even on a 90-degree day—reinforcing the quiet, romantic feel of the place.

But the clueless big mouth at the next table just doesn’t get it. He couldn’t distinguish this place from the diner even though I know he liked the food—I heard him loud and clear. Whadya gonna do? I wanted to give him a kick in the head. It was as if Dean’s old partner Jerry’s picture were overlooking the proceedings instead.

A Caprese Salad ($7.95) with wisps of prosciutto and dark balsamic, starts thing right. Clams Casino ($9.95) are excellent, draped with thick slices of pancetta. A side dish of a pair of Meatballs ($6.95) worked well as an appetizer—tender, perfect.

Veal and Shrimp Francese ($22.95) is easy on the lemon, thick but tender cutlets and shrimp that are really more of a garnish. A special of Pork Chop Valdostano ($23.95), stuffed with gorgonzola, is outstanding. Another special, Roast Duck ($26.95) with a raspberry sauce, works very well. Reggie’s Jumbo Shrimp Oreganata ($24.95) was another favorite. The only miss on two visits was dessert—Crème Brulee ($7) tasted like it was overcooked in the broiler.

Zagat should have found this one.

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